Monday, 14 December 2015

10 Tips for Buying Ski Goggles



Ski goggles are an essential! No one wants to come home from a day in the mountains with sun spots, wind burn or frostbite and whether sitting on a chairlift or cruising in powder, the surrounding snow reflects and amplifies the sun’s rays meaning your eyes and face need protection. Sunglasses just do not provide the same levels of protection from the sun, wind and snow as goggles which will also defend your eyes in the event of a fall. 

Aside from protecting you from the elements, goggles are also your face, or image, while you are skiing so choose a good looking pair and you’ll add style along with protection.

Here’s our 10 point guide to buying ski goggles:

1.Choose the right lens tint. 
Who wants cloudy vision on a powder day or being blinded when the sky is clear? There are dozens of lens colours to choose from that vary from brand to brand, and although one colour might match your jacket better, each shade will filter light differently and offer unique advantages in certain weather and light conditions. The amount of light a goggle lens allows to pass through is called Visible Light Transmission (VLT). VLT is expressed as percentage of light allowed through the lens falling somewhere between 0% and 100%.

In low light and fog, yellow, gold and amber lenses filter out blue light, emphasizing shadows in the snow so you can see bumps better. They also work well in moderate and variable light conditions. Light rose and rose copper lenses are also excellent on low-light days.

In bright light, dark tints such as copper, dark brown, dark gray and dark green will keep your eyes more comfortable while they increase contrast.
Gray lenses are also good for letting you see true colours. A mirror (or "flash") coating enhances the effectiveness of tinted lenses by reflecting sunlight so it doesn't penetrate the lens. This lowers the VLT of the lens and makes it a great choice for bright, sunny days.

So, wearing the right lens for the weather conditions is important and has lead to the development of both photochromic lenses, which become lighter or darker automatically, as the light changes and interchangeable lens technology. These are so easy to change, it can be done in a minute while sitting on a chairlift.

Investing in one goggle that suits all conditions makes really good sense.

2.Lens Shape
The lens shape that you select may have an impact on your field of vision and the clarity of your peripheral vision. 

Spherical Lens goggles have a lens shape that matches the curvature of your eyes to give you a less distorted field of vision, more peripheral vision and a clearer sharper view. Spherical Lenses are more expensive but give you the best optics.

Flat Lens goggles can also be called cylindrical lenses. They allow a more limited field of vision and your peripheral view may have minimal distortion. They are subject to more glare.

Image result for scott lcg

3.Ventilation
Ventilation on goggles helps control the climate inside the goggle. Every brand has different features to allow air to flow through the goggle to prevent moisture from building up inside which can minimize fogging. The greater the ventilation, the less likely your goggles will fog up.
       
Fog prevention
Fogged up goggles plague even the best skiers and snowboarders. If you can’t see you can’t ski! Here are a few simple tips to help you stay fog free.

• Do not wipe the inside of your goggles if moisture gets on the inside lens. The inside lens is treated with an anti-fog coating so if you wipe that coating off, your goggles are almost certain to fog up. If snow or water gets into your goggles, shake them out first, then dab them with a goggle cloth… do not wipe them.

• Check your vents. Many goggles have vents which can often become clogged with snow. When clogged, fresh air cannot filter through; this will result in foggy lenses.

• Never use glass cleaner on your goggles. Glass cleaner will take off your anti-fog coating.

• When you take your goggles off, keep them off of your forehead. When you put goggles on your hot and sweaty forehead they will fill up with hot, moist air making it more difficult to remain fog-free when you place them back over your eyes. Your best bet is to leave them on your face or on the brim of your helmet.

4.Safety
Most goggles and sunglasses made for fast-moving winter sports have polycarbonate lenses; this material is much more impact-resistant than regular plastic. If you have prescription inserts, you'll want them to be made of polycarbonate or Trivex (another impact-resistant lens material).
Also, the more flexible the frame and lens, the less likely the lens will break or pop out in a bad fall. Foam inserts at all impact points are important. Some manufacturers now use polar fleece as padding; it's cushiony and warm, and it does a good job of wicking sweat from your skin if you become overheated.
For sunglasses, look for polycarbonate or other impact-resistant frame materials rather than metals. Adjustable rubber earpieces and nosepieces will keep them on better when you're tackling bumps and might be more comfortable than hard plastic ones that don't adjust.

5.Frame size
Most adults can comfortably fit into multiple sizes of goggles, but here are some general guidelines. A simple way to think about frame size is that it often times correlates with the size of your head so if you wear a small helmet consider a small frame and if you wear a large or extra-large helmet consider a larger frame. Pretty straight forward!
 
OTG (Over the Glasses) – OTG goggles are designed to allow you to wear your prescription eyeglasses under the goggles. This is a much less expensive option than a goggle with a custom prescription lens. OTG goggles are deeper than regular goggles and have channels to allow for the arms of your glasses. Your glasses shouldn’t move inside the goggles and there should be no discomfort or pressure from your glasses on your nose or temples.

Oversized – Size does matter, and not just because of the fit of the goggles. Many manufacturers are producing large, oversized goggles with the intent of providing more peripheral vision. Not everyone’s face fits a large, oversized goggle, nor are all helmets compatible with them. Wearing a larger goggle will provide you with more lens for the amount of frame, helping you get the widescreen, full director’s cut of your winter adventures. These styles give you a bigger field of vision both horizontally and vertically, which translates into better peripheral vision (great for snowboarding) and a better view of what is above and below you. If you’re a park snowboarder thinner frames are also advantageous because they allow you to track the ground better when spinning and twisting. But even if you are just sticking to the nursery slopes, that lack of a thick frame in your field of vision means increased peripheral vision, allowing you to see hazards off to the side before they become an issue. 

6.Padding
This keeps the goggle from pinching your face. The foam should be thick enough to cushion your face but not be so thick that they prevent air flow and lead to fogging. High-end goggles may use 2 or 3 layers of thin padding to enhance venting.

7.Helmet compatibility
We highly recommend the use of a helmet when skiing or snowboarding and a number of tragic high profile accidents have led to a huge increase in the number of helmets worn on the slopes. When considering what goggle to purchase it makes sense to ensure it fits and looks great with your ‘lid’ and a number of manufacturers are now designing integrated helmet/ goggle designs

8.Budget
Believe it or not you can spend more than £500 on a pair of goggles which in our view is an eye watering figure without an icy blast to the face! If you are a hardened powder hound planning on spending all season in the mountains you’ re likely to encounter a range of weather conditions so consider the higher end models with interchangeable or photochromic lenses but if it’s your first time on a week’s holiday and your reluctant to invest so heavily a budget pair will more than suffice.

9.Buy before you get to the mountain.
Don't shop at a snow resort unless you have to. Take your time and research the type you like to make a heads up decision. There are exceptions, but many resorts have a limited selection at inflated prices.

10. Discounts & Advice
Lastly, but by no meant least, if you have any questions about any of the advice above or about a particular goggle, give us a call at Sports-Outlet on 0333 666 3022. We’ll be happy to help!


Friday, 20 March 2015

Best Ski Jackets for Spring Skiing

This time of year the air temperature rises and the clothing you need for skiing changes.  Key word: breathability!  As you are zooming down the pistes you will inevitably sweat more so you must wear clothing that will transport the sweat away from your body.  With this in mind, the best selling jackets this time of year are Shell Jackets:  waterproof, breathable jackets without insulation.

·         Fabric: Look for fabrics with a breathability rating of 10k – 15k grams.
·         Layers:   With layers, it is easier to control the amount of insulation/ventilation you have depending on what you are doing at the time.  Make sure they are breathable too!
·         Waterproof:  Hard Shell jacket fabric will be waterproof, but check for taped seams and waterproof zips to ensure there are no weak points.
·         Vents: Pit Zips: a really handy feature to release trapped hot air and let in some cool air to circulate around your skin.  Lift up the arm of the jacket and check to see if there are underarm zips that you can undo.   
·         Other uses: we love being able to wear our shell jackets for other sports too!  Think cycling, hiking, etc.


Scott  Viretta Shell £120 (RRP £200)
Scott Saber 3in1
Scott Saber 3 in 1
£175 (RRP £250)

Wednesday, 21 January 2015

Spot the Difference Competition!

 

So here are three pairs of Scott black women's best-selling Enumclaw ski pants... can you spot the differences?!

  • The colour is the same
  • The fit is the same
  • All have inner thigh venting
  • All have the same number of pockets
  • Al have fully taped seams
  • The fabric has the same specification: 10000mm/12000br
And the differences:
  • The logos are in different places
  • The detailing on the pockets varies
  • Is that all - really?!
  • Well the price!  - wow one is £50 cheaper!  
So why the price differences for essentially the same pair of top brand pant. How? 

Simple. We buy end of season stock and sell it discounted the following year. So we save and so do our customers. So the £78 are from 2 seasons ago, the £96 pair are from last year and the £128 pair from this season (which incidentally retail at £160 elsewhere!).  

So you save whichever pair you choose - you just have to decide how much! 

Your choice.  Sports-Outlet - saving you money, but not compromising on quality.

Monday, 24 November 2014

Skiwear Concise Alpine Dictionary

Skiwear technology has reached new dizzy heights in the last few years and it can be very confusing when faced with 8000mm/10000gr/STR etc jargon.  What does it all mean…?! So Sports-Outlet has put together the Skiwear Concise Alpine Dictionary for all the definitions you'll ever need!
A is for…Abrasion-resistant.  Some ski pants feature an extra panel at the bottom to protect the fabric from rubbing against boots or poles, where the fabric is more susceptible to getting a tear.
Breathability Rating: Most ski jackets have a rating such as 10000/12000 (or 10k/12k).  The first number (10000) refers to the waterproof rating.   The 2ndnumber (12000) refers to the breathability rating.  The higher the rating the more breathable the fabric.  If you perspire when skiing or boarding you need to zap this extra moisture away from your skin, so you should look for a highly breathable fabric in your jacket.
Critically Taped Seams: Like Fully Taped seams the purpose is to stop any snow getting into the fabric through the seams.  However Critically Taped seams means that only the main seams in the garment are fully taped – not necessarily every seam as with Fully Taped seams, which are usually a bit pricier.
Draw Cords: Many hoods have draw cords which can be adjusted to pull in the fabric around your face should the winter elements start to attack.  You also find draw cords in the bottom of some jackets.
E….Errrrr
Fully Taped Seams: The purpose is to stop any snow getting into the fabric through the seams.  More expensive outerwear often has Fully Taped seams, which means that every seam in the garment has this protection.
Goggle Pocket:  If you like to swap between sunglasses and goggles look out for a large interior pocket in your jacket which can accommodate your goggles when not in use.
Gore-Tex®:  For supreme durable waterproof and windproof protection then Gore-Tex is the market leader.  This is a permanent waterproof and windproof coating on fabrics.  Many brands use this, but it is more expensive.
Hoods: To hood or not to hood!  Most ski jackets have hoods, but some are fixed and some are removable.  Also if you wear a helmet you should look for a jacket where the hood can come up over the helmet if required.  Adjustable features such as Draw Cords are useful for pulling in the hood when required.  A stiff brim helps too.
Insulated:  Insulated jackets offer various levels of warmth generally ranging from 40gr to 220gr.  An insulated jacket will then have a waterproof outer shell to protect you.  If you are likely to perspire heavily, or are skiing at different times during the season, then a shell jacket would offer you breathability and temperature control that insulated jackets don’t.  In summary insulated jackets are warmer but less versatile than a shell.
Jacket-to-pant Interlock system: This system connects jacket and pants together using poppers, zip, loops or hooks.
Layers:  Always wear technical layers that are also breathable to maximise the performance of your outerwear.  Look for warmth without added weight.
Leg Gaiters: Inside the bottom of all ski pants is an inner elasticated gaiter that fits around your boot holding your pants in place and stopping snow riding up inside your legs and down your boots…brrr.
Moisture-wicking: Jacket and pant linings are sometimes made of a ’moisture-wicking’ material that removes sweat away from the body, helping to keep you dry.
Primaloft®: Primaloft® insulation is lightweight, breathable and proven to repel water better than any other synthetic of natural insulation, so you remain warm, dry and comfortable.
Shell:    Pure Shell jackets can offer superb levels of waterproofing and breathability, but do not offer any warmth.  For spring skiers, or touring skiers and boarders who spend time going uphill as well as down and work up more of a sweat, this fabric zaps the moisture away from the skin and offers great protection from the elements.  When warmth is needed the trick is to layer up underneath.
Ski Pass Pocket: Gone are the days when you have to fumble for your ski pass on a string.  Just zap your sleeve or chest ski pass holder across the sensor and you’re in!  Very handy.
Snood:  For many a favourite accessory: sits over your neck and can be pulled up over your mouth and chin when it gets a bit chilly out there.  Ski Lift essential!
Snow Skirts:  This is an elasticated hidden inner waist band to stop snow riding up inside your jacket.  They can be poppered away or removed when not in use.
STR: Strategic Thermal Regulation: A canny feature which puts insulation where you need it in cold zones and performance mesh in hot zones to sure you are kept warm and dry without added bulk.
Thumb loops: wind and snow like to get in the gap between your jacket and your gloves.  This can be combated by having a wrist gaitor inside your jacket that loops down over your thumb.  Especially handy in children’s snow gear.
Vents:  Many jackets and pants have zipped vents in the armpits and between the legs.  So if you get a bit warm just unzip and let the cool air in!
Waterproof Rating:  Most ski jackets have a rating such as 10000/12000 (or 10k/12k).  The first number (10000) refers to the waterproof rating and refers to ‘10000mm’, which is a result from a pressure test when the fabric is stretched out and water poured on top to a height where it eventually permeates the fabric.  The higher the rating the more waterproof it is.  We would advise that any rating above 8000mm is good.  20000 is high.
Wicking:   This refers to the properties in the fabric lining that draws moisture away from your skin.  It effectively absorbs moisture and spreads it over a large surface, accelerating the vaporation process to keep you dry.
Wrist Gaiters:  Some jackets have cuffs attached to the wrists of your jacket than come down over your hand and are held in place with thumb holes.  Again to stop snow getting where it shouldn’t, and also to hold shut that chilly gap between jacket and glove.
Zips:  Zips are an exposed part of your jacket and it is good if they are water repellent.  Also look out for a cover at the top of the zip to prevent it chafing on your chin.



Thursday, 20 November 2014

Driving to the French Alps


The very best accommodation deals up for grabs are often ‘flightless’…so how hard is it to load up the car and drive on down (and up!)? We think you’ll find it easier and quicker than you might imagine…




Our information is based on heading from Calais.  You can get there either by ferry (www.ferryonline.co.uk) or on the Eurotunnel (www.eurotunnel.com).  There are some great deals to be had…and if you have any vouchers e.g Tesco remember they can be used.

The European motorways and French road networks are better than their UK counterparts – with much less congestion.  Some of the French resorts can be reached from Calais in less than 8 hours.  

Queue Jumping!

A big tip before you go is to get yourself a ‘license-to-queue-barge’: a Liver-t Toll Tag.  It is a tiny electronic device that you stick on your windscreen that then allows you to use the ‘priority’ queues at all the French tolls.  We used one last year and it was fantastic to just see the barrier automatically open up so you just whizz on through!  To get your hands on one, go to the Sanef Tolling website (it’s in English). There is a small set up cost and an invoice arrives the following month for your tolls which are collected by direct debit.  For the time it saves it is well worth it.

How Long?

  • Calais - Alpe D'Huez - 8 hrs 30 mins
  • Calais - Chamonix - 7 hrs 50 mins
  • Calais - Courchevel 1850 - 8 hrs 50 mins
  • Calais - La Plagne - 9 hrs 15 mins
  • Calais - Les Deux Alpes - 8 hrs 40 mins
  • Calais - Meribel - 8 hrs 45 mins
  • Calais - Morzine – 8 hrs
  • Calais - Tignes - 9 hrs 20 mins
  • Calais - Val D'Isere - 9 hrs 20 mins

For help with route planning with time and cost estimations visit www.viamichelin.com or www.theaa.com.
Radar speed traps are very common so do be aware of speed limits on French motorways!
  • 130km/hr (81mph) on toll motorways (110km/hr when raining)
  • 110km/hr (68mph) on dual carriageways (90km/hr when raining)
  • 50km/hr in towns
  • 90km/hr on other roads

Wednesday, 5 November 2014

Choosing the right ski goggles



Buying a good pair of ski goggles is obviously essential for maximising your vision and enjoyment on the slopes.  Lens technology has advanced so much in recent years, but it can sometimes be confusing to know which lens to use when.

We stock Scott and Smith Ski Goggles.  We have chosen these brands as they are world leaders in ski goggle manufacturing and their goggle lenses deliver unbelievable levels of clarity. All Smith and Scott goggles offer 100% UVA/UVB/UVC Protection.  

All Smith and Scott lenses are either Cylindrical or Spherical giving superior optical clarity: (cheap ski goggles use ‘stamped lenses’ which are flat).  

We offer discounted junior and youth ski goggles, as well as OTG, male, female and unisex ski goggles for all conditions.  If you have any queries regarding which is the best goggle for you, then please do contact us.

  • All The Time: you need lenses that will handle changing conditions.
    • Scott NL-32 or NL-40
    • Scott Amplifier
    • Scott purple, yellow, teal, green or blue
    • Light sensitive bronze chrome
    • Smith Ignitor
    • Smith RC36
  • Only Cloudy Days: look for a lens that is optimised for flat light conditions to give you excellent contrast between white sky and white snow!
    • Scott Light Amplifier
    • Scott Illuminator
    • Scott Red Chrome
    • Smith Sensor
    • Smith Yellow
  • Sunny Days: wear lenses that produce the highest level of protection against the dazzling effect of sun and snow glare:
    • Scott Solar
    • Scott Silver Chrome
    • Scott NL-15 or NL-20
    • Smith Red or Green
    • Smith Sol-X
  • Lens Changing Technology
    • With the option to swap lenses easily on the mountain, consider the Smith I/O or the new Scott LCG.  


Thursday, 16 October 2014

10 top tips for buying a ski jacket

  1. Waterproof:  it sounds obvious but you need a fabric that will keep the wet snow out and keep you dry.  Look for fabrics with a waterproof rating of 15k-20k mm.  Gore-Tex is the market leader, but there are plenty of other fabrics out there that perform almost as well.  Also consider when you will wear the jacket.  If you wear it aside from skiing then it will need to perform in rainy conditions too so a higher rating is more vital.
  2. Breathability:  this is the key feature in all your ski clothing.  You will inevitably sweat so you must wear clothing that will transport the sweat away from your body. Look for fabrics with a breathability rating of 10k–15k grams.
  3. Taped seams: your jacket fabric may be waterproof, but check for taped seams and waterproof zips to ensure there are no weak points.
  4. Vents: Pit Zips: a really handy feature to release trapped hot air and let in some cool air to circulate around your skin.  Lift up the arm of the jacket and check to see if there are underarm zips that you can undo.
  5. High Collar. When you are sitting on that chair lift heading up the hill, the wind can be bitter and there is no better feeling than being able to tuck your chin, mouth and nose into the cosy protection of your zipped up jacket.
  6. Hood: make sure that it fits comfortably over your helmet.  Some jackets have removable hoods rather than fixed.
  7. Pockets Galore.  Picture the kit you take with you on the slopes.  Do you need a goggle pocket?  Camera or phone storage?  Room for a hat?  Chocolate rations?  More than this and you ought to consider a rucksack!  One handy pocket feature to look out for is a lift pass pocket built into the sleeve, as most lifts are now operated electronically.  All you need to do is wave your sleeve across the sensor to gain access, saving you fumbling for your pass each time with the queue cursing behind you!
  8. Snow skirt.  If you are lucky enough to find yourself creaming through the powder an elasticated snow skirt inside the bottom of your jacket will stop the snow creeping up inside.  If you’re not quite a powder hound yet you’ll still be thankful for it when you wipe out and find yourself sliding through a mound of snow.  If you have children make sure their jackets have this feature, as they love to roll in the snow!
  9. Sleeve gaiters: another sneaky spot for snow to creep up is the open sleeves of your jacket.  Some jackets have an inner sleeve that hooks down over your thumb.  These are not essential, but do check you have a good overlap with long sleeves and the gauntlet of your gloves.
  10. Design and Colour: of course this is the feature that first attracts you to the jacket in the shop.  Bright jackets are useful for spotting you on the slopes, which helps if you are skiing with friends or family.  Then again if you wear your jacket off piste as well, you might want to consider what is acceptable in your local pub!  If this is the case maybe go for a ‘safer’ colour on your jacket, and brighter ski pants.