Skiwear technology has reached new dizzy heights in the last few
years and it can be very confusing when faced with 8000mm/10000gr/STR etc
jargon. What does it all mean…?! So Sports-Outlet has put together the
Skiwear Concise Alpine Dictionary for all the definitions you'll ever need!
A is for…Abrasion-resistant. Some ski pants feature an extra panel at the
bottom to protect the fabric from rubbing against boots or poles, where the
fabric is more susceptible to getting a tear.
Breathability
Rating: Most ski jackets
have a rating such as 10000/12000 (or 10k/12k). The first number (10000)
refers to the waterproof rating. The 2ndnumber (12000) refers to the breathability
rating. The higher the rating the more breathable the fabric. If
you perspire when skiing or boarding you need to zap this extra moisture away
from your skin, so you should look for a highly breathable fabric in your
jacket.
Critically
Taped Seams: Like Fully Taped
seams the purpose is to stop any snow getting into the fabric through the
seams. However Critically Taped seams means that only the main seams in
the garment are fully taped – not necessarily every seam as with Fully Taped
seams, which are usually a bit pricier.
Draw
Cords: Many hoods have draw
cords which can be adjusted to pull in the fabric around your face should the
winter elements start to attack. You also find draw cords in the bottom
of some jackets.
E….Errrrr
Fully
Taped Seams: The purpose is to
stop any snow getting into the fabric through the seams. More expensive
outerwear often has Fully Taped seams, which means that every seam in the
garment has this protection.
Goggle
Pocket:
If you like to swap
between sunglasses and goggles look out for a large interior pocket in your
jacket which can accommodate your goggles when not in use.
Gore-Tex®: For supreme
durable waterproof and windproof protection then Gore-Tex is the market
leader. This is a permanent waterproof and windproof coating on
fabrics. Many brands use this, but it is more expensive.
Hoods: To hood or not to hood! Most ski jackets have
hoods, but some are fixed and some are removable. Also if you wear a
helmet you should look for a jacket where the hood can come up over the helmet
if required. Adjustable features such as Draw Cords are useful for
pulling in the hood when required.
A stiff brim helps too.
Insulated: Insulated jackets offer various
levels of warmth generally ranging from 40gr to 220gr. An insulated
jacket will then have a waterproof outer shell to protect you. If you are
likely to perspire heavily, or are skiing at different times during the season,
then a shell jacket would offer you breathability and temperature control that
insulated jackets don’t. In
summary insulated jackets are warmer but less versatile than a shell.
Jacket-to-pant
Interlock system:
This system connects jacket and pants together using poppers, zip, loops or
hooks.
Layers: Always wear technical layers that are also breathable to
maximise the performance of your outerwear. Look for warmth without added
weight.
Leg
Gaiters: Inside the bottom of
all ski pants is an inner elasticated gaiter that fits around your boot holding
your pants in place and stopping snow riding up inside your legs and down your
boots…brrr.
Moisture-wicking: Jacket and pant linings are sometimes
made of a ’moisture-wicking’ material that removes sweat away from the body,
helping to keep you dry.
Primaloft®: Primaloft® insulation
is lightweight, breathable and proven to repel water better than any other
synthetic of natural insulation, so you remain warm, dry and comfortable.
Shell: Pure Shell jackets can
offer superb levels of waterproofing and breathability, but do not offer any
warmth. For spring skiers, or touring skiers and boarders who spend time
going uphill as well as down and work up more of a sweat, this fabric zaps the
moisture away from the skin and offers great protection from the
elements. When warmth is needed the trick is to layer up underneath.
Ski
Pass Pocket: Gone are the days
when you have to fumble for your ski pass on a string. Just zap your
sleeve or chest ski pass holder across the sensor and you’re in! Very
handy.
Snood: For many a favourite accessory: sits
over your neck and can be pulled up over your mouth and chin when it gets a bit
chilly out there. Ski Lift essential!
Snow
Skirts: This is an
elasticated hidden inner waist band to stop snow riding up inside your jacket. They can be poppered away or removed when not
in use.
STR:
Strategic Thermal Regulation: A canny feature which puts insulation where you need it
in cold zones and performance mesh in hot zones to sure you are kept warm and
dry without added bulk.
Thumb loops: wind and snow like to get in the gap between your
jacket and your gloves. This can be combated
by having a wrist gaitor inside your jacket that loops down over your thumb. Especially handy in children’s snow gear.
Vents: Many jackets and pants have
zipped vents in the armpits and between the legs. So if you get a bit
warm just unzip and let the cool air in!
Waterproof
Rating:
Most ski jackets have
a rating such as 10000/12000 (or 10k/12k). The first number (10000) refers
to the waterproof rating and refers to ‘10000mm’, which is a result from a
pressure test when the fabric is stretched out and water poured on top to a
height where it eventually permeates the fabric. The higher the rating
the more waterproof it is. We would advise that any rating above 8000mm
is good. 20000 is high.
Wicking: This
refers to the properties in the fabric lining that draws moisture away from
your skin. It effectively absorbs moisture and spreads it over a large
surface, accelerating the vaporation process to keep you dry.
Wrist
Gaiters: Some jackets
have cuffs attached to the wrists of your jacket than come down over your hand
and are held in place with thumb holes. Again to stop snow getting where
it shouldn’t, and also to hold shut that chilly gap between jacket and
glove.
Zips: Zips are an exposed part of your jacket and
it is good if they are water repellent.
Also look out for a cover at the top of the zip to prevent it chafing on
your chin.
